On 26th May 2023, we set off along the Gibb River Road. It was a place we had dreamed about for years and finally planned to explore. The day began with us shooing peacocks and chickens away from the van so we could have breakfast in peace. Afterward, we loaded up the van and topped up the water on the way out of Birdwood Station. Once we left the gate, we turned left to start our journey along the Gibb River Road.
The first section was sealed road until just before Windjana Gorge. We had hoped to visit there, but it was still closed. Heavy flooding from the wet season had caused serious damage. Further along the same road was Tunnel Creek National Park, which was open. However, the water level was still high enough to block the track through the tunnel. We decided to skip it and plan to visit another time. It just means we’ll need to return to explore more.
Once the road turned to dirt, driving was smooth because it had been recently graded. We even saw the graders working not long before reaching our first camp at Silent Grove, near Bell Gorge.
While our drive was uneventful, we did pass 3 4wds towing on road caravans!!!!! the 1st part of the track was in good condition however this is definitely NOT the place to take any vehicle or trailer not specifically designed to handle rough offroad conditions. Because they only had road vans they were driving incredibly slowly (20km/h or less) and causing problems for others using the road.
We crossed the creek at the entrance to Silent Grove without trouble. Our car and van were only axles deep. After quickly setting up camp, we had a late lunch. Later, we drove a short distance to Bell Gorge. From the car park, it’s a 900m walk to the top of the falls. We spent the afternoon swimming, taking photos, and exploring the view. As the sun started to set, we headed back to camp before it got dark for dinner and sleep.
That night, I snuck out again. I went back to Bell Gorge to try and capture a photo of the Milky Way, with the waterfall in the foreground.
The next morning, we learned Leonard Gorge was still closed. Instead, we returned to Bell Gorge and took the steep path down to the bottom of the falls. Early in the dry season, the water was flowing well. It looked stunning with plenty of water pouring over. We swam and explored further down the river, enjoying the cool water.
Later, we went back to the top of the falls for more fun. The boys loved playing on a small slippery slide just upstream from the falls. It was a safe distance away, so no risk of sliding down the falls themselves. After a while, we returned to camp for a rest and some downtime.
On 28th May, we left Silent Grove. On the way out, we saw the three on-road vans we had passed earlier. They had just arrived and stopped after crossing the creek. They had to drain water from their vans because it had come in during the crossing. ( the crossing is only slightly above axle deep on our patrol)
We continued towards Mt Barnett Station, stopping at Adcock Gorge for a swim. The track was tough, especially pulling the van. It was slow going, with lots of twists and turns. We decided to park the van about three-quarters of the way in and continue on foot. In hindsight, it would have been better to leave the van earlier. But we didn’t know how tricky the track would be, and that’s all part of the adventure.
We stopped at the first parking area and decided to walk from there. The last part of the trail was a water crossing over large rocks, but it wasn’t long to reach the waterfall and waterhole. We swam, jumped off rocks, and swung from a rope tied to a tree. When it was time to leave, we drove back, picked up the caravan, and continued toward Mt Barnett station. About 10km before arriving, I noticed one of the van’s tires was a bit low but still okay to get there, as long as it didn’t lose to much more pressure.
Once we arrived, we checked in, filled the water tanks, and headed down to the camp near Manning Creek, close to Manning Gorge. The area was busy, and we eventually found a flat spot about 500m from the entrance. There is only one set of amenities here, so if you’re not camping nearby, it’s wise to bring your own toilet. There are no designated sites—just find any nice spot you like. Some tour groups stop here, but they have their own setup, and we were far from their area.
After setting up camp, I had to change the tyre with the slow puncture. It was hard to loosen the nuts using our wheel brace, but luckily another camper lent us a breaker bar, and we managed to get it off.
On Monday morning, we were eager to hike down to Manning Gorge. We waited until it warmed up since temperatures had dropped to 6°C overnight. The 2.5km trail begins at the northern end of the campground. Before you start walking, you need to swim across the river. The swim is easy, with a big rock in the middle for resting. There are cut-in-half plastic drums to hold your packs so they won’t get wet.
Once across, we followed the orange markers over rocks and down into the gorge. Near the end of the trail, we reached a beautiful waterhole with a waterfall. It was spacious enough for everyone to relax, swim, and play. We swam and jumped into the falls from the rocks. We also met a Swiss family we had seen earlier at other waterfalls along the road. The boys enjoyed playing with the little girl, Julia. Despite her not speaking English, It didn’t cause any trouble.
After some hours of relaxing, palying and swimming, we all headed back together. Later, our new friends joined us for roast lamb by the fire. The kids played until bedtime.
The next morning, Jack went for a walk with Belinda and played with Julia before we headed west along the track. We drove 30km to Over the Range Tyre and Mechanical to fix the tyre. The hole was on the side of the tyre, so it couldn’t be reliably repaired. Since the other van tyre was quite worn, we decided to replace both on Wednesday.
From there we drove up to Galvin’s gorge which we were going to stop at on our way to Mt Barnett but it was closed that day due to burn offs nearby. Its only a short walk into the falls from the side of the Gibb and this is another small but beautiful little gorge and waterfall, great for a swim and a play.
On the way back to camp, we collected firewood. We then took the boys to the river to play on the sandbanks and splash in the shallow water. We finished the day with a cosy fire in the evening.
Wednesday saw us leaving Mt Barnett and returning to the tyre shop. We got the tyres replaced before driving the last 230km of the Gibb River Road to the Pentecost River. The last 100km of the track was very rough and corrugated. When we finally set up by the river, we discovered our first serious problem: the van’s fridge was leaking coolant. NOT GOOD.
We did our best to clean up the coolant while the boys made rock cities by the river. I also discovered I had broken the grey water outlet pipe by accidently hitting it on a rock crossing the river.
Crossing the river with the van attached was a fun challenge. The water only just covered the bottom of the door, and the rocky bottom was mostly slow-moving and easy to cross. That was until I found a soft patch we later learned had been churned up by a semi-trailer the day before. We almost lost momentum there, but managed to get through. The rest of the crossing was smooth sailing.
In the morning I did another drive across the Pentecost and back without the van attached because I could, and to take some video. We intended to put the drone up for some footage but every time we launched it, an eagle started stalking it so we quickly brought it back down.
We then hooked up the van and headed to El Questro station, where we had booked six nights. When we arrived, the coolant leak appeared worse than before, and we realised we couldn’t sleep in the van because of the ammonia-based coolant. For our family to camp in one of the glamping tents would cost $400 a night, which was too much for us. After calling repair shops in Kununurra and finding no luck, we decided to drive to Darwin to get it fixed.
While planning, I talked with El Questro reception about our options. Just as we decided to head to Darwin, the front office manager came to see us. They were very helpful and were happy to postpone our booking without fees until the fridge was fixed.
With the decision made, we left El Questro around lunchtime. We reached Katherine by about 8:30 pm and stayed in a cabin for the night.
On Friday, June 2nd, I made some calls in the morning. I found a place to fix the fridge but they were unavailable until Monday. So, we continued our drive to Darwin and stayed with friends Kelly and Steven. We ended up staying there for about two and a half weeks, waiting for the fridge repair. We’re very grateful to them; we don’t know what we would have done without their kindness.
During our first week in Darwin, we didn’t do much. We mainly took care of everyday things and arranged for the fridge repairs. I fixed the grey water pipe and spent hours scrubbing the ammonia smell out of the van.
On Wednesday, June 7th, we took the boys to Crocodylus Park. We saw plenty of crocodiles and watched one being fed. Belinda and the boys also held a young python and a bearded dragon during a reptile talk. Jack was especially excited to hold the snake. Later, I took the boys to see the V8 supercars truck parade, where I also ran into some old friends from Darwin.
The next day, we did a day trip to Litchfield National Park. Our first stop was Wangi Waterhole. It was still closed for swimming because of crocs, but it is a peaceful spot with a big waterfall. The water was flowing well, even in the dry season.
I had hoped to take the family down Reynolds River Track to see Sandy Creek Falls. I have a big canvas print of a photo I took there years ago. But the track was still closed due to high water levels. I was disappointed because I wanted to show them Sandy Creek and Surprise Creek Falls, which has two drops into great rock holes for jumping in. It was a shame we couldn’t visit.
Instead, we stopped at Tolmer Falls lookout first, then headed to Bluey Rock Pools. We spent plenty of time there in a great spot where you can jump into the creek and let the current carry you to a shallow rock ledge so you can easily climb out and do it again. Everyone loved it. When we finally convinced the kids to leave the water, we piled into the car and just around the corner to Florence Falls.
Near the start of the trail down to the falls, there’s a fantastic viewing point that gives a good view of the falls. You can see it clearly before walking down the track to swim at the base. It gets busy with lots of visitors (thanks to Photoshop for removing the crowd from the photo), but swimming was still fun. If you sit still long enough, fish will swim up and nibble at your feet.
That evening I took the kids out for dinner with my friends to the sailing club and it was great to catch up after so long. Belinda was not feeling the best so she stayed home.
Friday and Saturday were quiet days. On Friday night, we walked to Palmerston markets for dinner. Saturday evening, Kelly, Steven, and their kids joined us for dinner at the Jetty by the wharf. It was a thank you for letting us stay.
On Sunday, June 11, we woke early to visit Berry Springs for an early swim. The water was warm, and at one end, water poured over rocks into the pools. Sitting under it felt like a gentle massage. When we arrived, it was quiet, but it got crowded by the time we left, which is normal on weekends.
From Monday to Thursday, things were quiet. I had some training to do for my pilot’s licence. On Thursday, June 15, I got a call I’d been waiting for. It was about starting my new job in Cairns. The news made me very happy but a little sad too, as our trip would be ending soon. I was set to begin in mid-July, giving us time to see a few more places before heading to Cairns to settle back into normal life.
Saturday 17th June was Troy’s birthday so as per request we had pancakes for breakfast and then we all went to Kingpin to play 10 pin bowling and laser tag. Troy and all the kids had a great time and Troy got a new bike for his birthday. For dinner he requested Pork Belly so I cooked that in the afternoon while the kids played.
Sunday we had a quiet morning, before heading to Mindl beach markets late in the afternoon to explore. At the markets we picked up a lovely Indigenous painting of 2 crocodiles and then got some dinner and sat down the beach to eati and watch the stunning sunset. Mindl Beach markets is one of those must do activities in Darwin although it does get very busy at times.
On Monday, I took the Patrol for a service and Tuesday, we finally got the fridge reinstalled in the van. It took longer than expected because a new cooling unit had to come from Melbourne. It was sent by road because it is compressed gas. We spent most of the day packing the van again, getting ready to leave on Wednesday. That evening, we met Belinda’s cousin at Flynn’s in Palmerston for trivia night.
Wednesday, June 21, we left Darwin. Driving through Katherine and heading west toward El Questro again. We found a quiet free camping spot near Timbre Creek to stay overnight, joined by a few other caravanners.
On Thursday, we continued to El Questro, stopping in Kununurra for supplies. We arrived around 3 pm. After setting up, we had a nice dinner at the resort bar. The road into El Questro is dirt with some bumps but not too bad. There are a few water crossings, one of which was a fun longer crossing with a rocky bottom, just covering the side steps. No trouble for us.
On Friday, we finally started our exploration of the El Questro area after waiting so long. Our first stop was Zebedee Springs early in the day to enjoy a soak in the hot waters. Normal visitors can access the springs until midday. After that, only guests of the five-star lodge can use them. The springs are made up of many small pools nestled among ferns and palms. With some exploring, we found more pools further upstream along the creek.
In the afternoon, we joined a birthday party for one of the kids our boys had befriended. They happily enjoyed ice cream cake and played together.
On Saturday, we woke early and drove to Emma Gorge. The walk from the car park to the gorge is 3.2 km and takes about an hour each way. The trail involves plenty of rock hopping, and we worked up a sweat before reaching the falls. At the end of the track, there’s a lovely swimming spot at the base of the waterfall. The walk was easily manageable for us and the kids.
After many photos and a refreshing swim, we returned to the car park. We headed back toward the main station area where we were camped. But before stopping, we crossed the river and drove up a steep, well-maintained 4WD track to Saddleback Ridge. The view from the top was stunning, so we planned to return for sunset. In the afternoon, I cooked sausages and kept them warm in the 12V oven. Later, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset, eating our sausages on bread at the lookout.
unday, 25th June, started with an early wake-up for a scenic flight over Lake Argyle, the Bungle Bungles, Bow River, and the Argyle diamond mine. The flight was smooth and spectacular. The Bungle Bungles looked especially striking in the morning light. The reflections and lines in the rocks stood out clearly.
We landed back at El Questro around 8.30 am. Belinda and Troy headed straight to the stables for their 9.30 horse riding trip.
That afternoon we were all a bit tired so had a bit of a lay down and an early night.
Monday took us to explore another gorge. We trekked 6.8 km return to MacMicking Falls in El Questro Gorge. The journey to the start of the walk was a challenge. We crossed a bonnet deep water crossing that seemed endless. The base was solid, so the Patrol managed easily, however it may have left the car’s carpet a little damp.
The walk itself started easy but grew more difficult the further we went along with larger rocks and tricky patches appearing along the path. Halfway through, there’s a waterhole. To continue, we had to climb between the wall of the gorge and a large rock. By the time we got to this point thankfully, we had met up with another family with similar aged kids so we all worked together to get our bags through dry and then kids through.
The remaining journey was a scramble over boulders. We also had to climb a small waterfall to reach the final section. A group of hikers rushed past, pushing rocks loose. Troy was knocked over but only shaken, not hurt.
MacMicking Falls and the waterhole were beautiful. We swam and played with our new friends before heading back down. We were all very tired by then. We took it easy and enjoyed a drink at the bar later that evening.
Tuesday was a slow day. After all the walking, we did some exploring in the 4WD. We drove up to Pigeon Hole Lookout, which offers views of the Pentacost River flowing through El Questro. We had planned to stay for sunset but clouds rolled in. Instead, we had pizza at the pub and relaxed for the evening.
On Wednesday, June 28th, we headed out early to Zebedee Springs for one last swim before hitching up the van and heading east toward Cairns. The water was warm and relaxing, a perfect way to start the day.
About an hour east of El Questro, we reached Kununurra. Our first stop was at the Zebra Stone Gallery, where we bought more souvenirs than planned. Afterwards, we visited the Hoochery Rum Distillery just north of town. Naturally, I sampled a few drinks and ended up with a lovely bottle of mango rum liqueur. I might have tried a little too much since Belinda had to take the wheel for much of the drive later. We eventually made our way back to Katherine, spending a couple of nights at the Discovery Park.
Thursday started with a sleep-in, then we explored the local hot springs and did some shopping. Later, we visited a nearby farm stay to reconnect with friends we met in Western Australia. The kids enjoyed feeding animals and getting up close with farm life.
On Friday, we set off early again. Our first stop was Bitter Springs in Mataranka, where we floated through the warm, clear waters several times. The gentle current made relaxing swims easy, and walking back to the starting point for more laps was part of the fun.
Later, we found our camp spot at Elsey National Park on the Roper River. We spent the afternoon exploring the river and riding bikes around. The scenery was stunning, and the boys loved riding around the campoground.
The rest of the trip involves a lot of driving. So, We left our campsite early and headed to Daily waters on the way to Barkley Homestead. Daily Waters is an interesting stop. The street is lined with old planes and helicopters, and the local pub is filled with decorations. We even saw a herd of longhorn cattle being herded down the main road, which was quite a sight.
From there, the drive to Barkley Homestead was straightforward. When we arrived, rain had caught up with us and turned the campground into mud. Barkley Homestead is a good place to stop between Queensland and the Stuart Highway, which runs from Darwin to Adelaide in the middle of Australia. I remembered it as a lively country pub with a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sadly, that’s no longer the case. The old pub burned down a couple of years ago, and the new one feels sterile and touristy. It’s still a decent spot to eat, but the genuine outback charm is gone.
On Sunday, July 2nd, we left Barkley early around 8 am. The drive to Queensland was quiet, with mostly flat roads. Near a rest stop, we watched an army convoy of trucks heading east as well. One soldier kindly handed the boys a patch each, which made them very happy.
We stopped at Cloncurry’s visitor centre on Mopndy to collect a patch for our quilt. Continuing east, the weather turned to rain on and off all day. We finally pulled in at a free RV stop next to Hughenden’s showgrounds. The rain made everything muddy, so the kids took full advantage, playing in the mud and rain. They needed a good shower later that night, thank god we have one in the van.
The next morning, we picked up supplies from the bakery and filled up with fuel before heading to Townsville. We stayed for two nights at a small farm stay just north of the city. We saw horses, ducks, and other animals, enjoying the quiet rural life.
Wednesday we had a slow start before heading into Townsville to the information centre. We then grabbed some lunch and went to the top of castle hill to eat it and enjoy the views. After lunch we headed to the Museum which was really interesting. I learned all about the ship Pandora and The box on the back deck of the ship which was used to house the captured mutineers from the HMS Bounty hence the name Pandora’s box.
That evening, we went to the Bushland Tavern for dinner. It was a chance to catch up with old friends. We all enjoyed a lovely night together.
Thursday, July 6th, marked the last day of our long trip around Australia. From Townsville, we headed to Cairns. There, we planned to stay in the caravan for a while until we found a house to buy.
This journey has been a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us and the kids. We met so many new people and made friends along the way. We also had some unforgettable moments like swimming with whale sharks, dolphins, and sea lions.
We explored many beautiful and unique spots across the country and enjoyed every single one. We would do it all again without hesitation. The trip showed us how much there is to see and how much more we need to explore, so future adventures are already on the horizon.
The trip cost a lot, but was worth every cent. I lost track of the fuel costs at around $17,000, when still in Western Australia.
Overseas Holidays sound appealing, but Australia has so much to offer. We have everything right here.
This marks the end of this trip. It’s been a fantastic adventure. We’ll add more stories to our site as we head out again. For now, it’s back to work and everyday life.
A Love of Adventures 